You probably don't think about your double clevis link much until a chain breaks or you need to join two lengths together on the fly. It's one of those unsung heroes in the world of rigging and towing that just gets the job done without a lot of fuss. If you've ever been stuck in the mud or needed to extend a tie-down chain on a trailer, you know exactly why having a couple of these in your toolbox is a smart move.
Why These Links Are Such a Lifesaver
Let's be honest, welding a chain back together in the middle of a field or at a construction site isn't exactly a realistic option for most of us. That's where the double clevis link steps in. Its main job is to connect two pieces of chain together quickly and securely. It looks like two U-shaped brackets joined back-to-back, each with its own pin and cotter key.
The beauty of this design is that you don't need any special tools to get it working. You just slide the chain links into the clevis ends, drop the pins through, and secure them. It's a mechanical connection that's often just as strong as the chain itself, provided you've picked the right grade. It saves time, and in most industries, time is the one thing nobody has enough of.
Picking the Right Strength and Size
Not all links are created equal, and grabbing the first one you see on the shelf might lead to a headache later. When you're shopping for a double clevis link, you really need to pay attention to the "Grade." Most of the time, you'll see Grade 70 or Grade 80.
Grade 70 vs Grade 80
If you're doing heavy-duty transport or farm work, Grade 70 is usually the standard. It's often gold-chromate plated so you can easily spot it. It's designed for load securement and is incredibly tough. On the other hand, Grade 80 is often used for overhead lifting (though you should always check the specific manufacturer's rating before lifting anything over your head).
Beyond the grade, you have to match the size of the link to the size of your chain. A 3/8-inch chain needs a 3/8-inch double clevis link. It sounds obvious, but trying to force a larger pin into a smaller chain link—or worse, using a pin that's too small and leaves too much wiggle room—is a recipe for failure.
Putting It All Together Without the Hassle
Installing one of these isn't rocket science, but there are a few tricks to make sure it stays put. First, you'll want to remove the cotter pins and pull out the main clevis pins. Once you've got your two chain ends lined up, slide them into the "throats" of the link.
The trickiest part for some people is dealing with the cotter pins. These are those little wire bits that keep the main pin from sliding out. Don't just bend one leg; make sure you wrap them properly around the pin so they don't snag on something and pull out. If you're in a high-vibration environment—like on the back of a vibrating flatbed truck—it's worth double-checking that those pins are seated perfectly.
Where You'll Actually Use Them
You'll find the double clevis link in all sorts of places once you start looking. For farmers, they're essential for repairing drag chains or connecting implements to a tractor when the original hardware has seen better days. They're also a staple for anyone who does a lot of off-roading. If you're using a recovery chain and it's just a few feet too short to reach a solid anchor point, these links let you combine two chains into one long, reliable line.
In the trucking industry, these are used constantly for securing heavy machinery. Sometimes the tie-down points on a piece of equipment are awkwardly spaced, and being able to customize your chain lengths with a double clevis link makes the whole process much safer and more efficient.
Why Not Just Use a Quick Link?
You might be tempted to use a simple threaded quick link because they're cheap and easy to find at any hardware store. But here's the thing: those threaded links usually aren't rated for the kind of tension a double clevis link can handle. A quick link relies on the threads of a small nut to hold the weight. A clevis link, however, relies on a thick, heat-treated steel pin.
If you're pulling a stump out of the ground or securing a five-ton excavator, you want the peace of mind that comes with a pin-and-clevis setup. It's built for "shock loads"—those sudden jerks and pulls that happen during towing. Threaded links can often strip or bend under that kind of pressure, but a solid clevis link is made to take the hit.
A Few Safety Tips to Keep in Mind
Even though these things are built like tanks, they aren't indestructible. It's a good habit to inspect your double clevis link every once in a while. Look for any signs of stretching or "ovaling" in the holes where the pins go. If the link looks slightly bent or if the pins are getting hard to remove, it's probably been overloaded at some point and needs to be replaced.
Rust is another thing to keep an eye on. While most are galvanized or plated, they can still corrode if they're left in the mud or salt for months. A little bit of surface rust isn't a dealbreaker, but deep pitting can weaken the metal. If you're using them for anything critical, like towing on a public highway, it's always better to be safe than sorry.
Understanding the Material
Most of the time, a double clevis link is made from drop-forged steel. Forging is basically the process of hammering the metal into shape while it's hot, which makes it much stronger than "cast" metal (which is just poured into a mold). This forging process aligns the grain of the steel, giving it that extra "bite" and durability.
You'll also notice they come in different finishes. You've got your standard painted finish, zinc plating, and sometimes even stainless steel for marine environments. If you're working near the ocean or in a place with lots of rain, spending the extra couple of bucks for a galvanized or stainless version will save you from having to replace a rusted-out link a year down the road.
The Versatility Factor
One of the coolest things about the double clevis link is that it doesn't just have to connect chain to chain. You can often use one end to connect to a D-ring or a lifting eye, as long as the dimensions match up. This makes them incredibly versatile for custom rigging setups where you might be mixing different types of hardware.
It's also worth mentioning that they're fairly compact. Unlike some large shackles or bulky connectors, the double clevis link stays pretty much in line with the chain. This is great if you're pulling a chain through a narrow opening or over a roller, as there's less chance of the hardware getting snagged.
Final Thoughts
At the end of the day, a double clevis link is a simple tool that solves a common problem. It's not flashy, and it's certainly not high-tech, but it's one of those items that you'll be incredibly glad you have when things go wrong. Whether you're a professional rigger, a weekend warrior working on the farm, or just someone who likes to be prepared for anything, these links are worth their weight in gold.
Next time you're picking up supplies, grab a couple of different sizes. Stick them in your truck's glove box or your tractor's toolbox. You might not need them today or even tomorrow, but when that chain eventually snaps or you find yourself three feet short of a secure tie-down, you'll be the person who has the quick fix ready to go. And in those moments, a little piece of forged steel feels like the most important tool in the world.